Sheer bliss in a Portuguese fishermen’s village: Cova do Vapor

 

An Atlantic summer breeze got lost in November…

We are going to tell you a secret, but to enjoy this secret you must keep it for yourself 🙂.

Not far from Lisbon, where the Tagus river and the Atlantic Ocean meet, stays a magic place with an unspoiled beach. After we had discovered it two weeks ago, we came back again last Sunday. It became our special Sunday retreat.

Cova do Vapor is a small village, where the fishermen fish at ease, the seagulls gather for long conversations, the surfers have good waves to (kite)surf, the dogs walk and talk nonchalantly, where you can eat fresh grilled fish for a fact, where there’s a local drink you won’t find anywhere else in Portugal.

Driving slowly into the village reveals a small bay, crumbling miniature houses painted with strong colors, a few miniature shops, miniature gardens…And suddenly you have the richness of the ocean with the large coastline on your doorstep.

On our arrival, a cat calls our attention as it is cautiously spying on the passersby.

With close to 200 residents it feels like a forgotten place. The days here are slower than in our urban life. Someone is having a barbeque right across the street. It smells like grilled fish. A kizomba song plays in the bar next door. Every now and then we come across an unruffled local. All of them look naturally happy. A lady approaches our dog Asta wagging its tail, she says,“So adorable! They’re a better company than men!”, and she starts laughing loudly as she walks away together with her husband and son.

The 30 km coastline along the Caparica begins in Cova do Vapor. The uncrowded beaches with white thin sand and a few sunbathers here and there make you regret you didn’t bring your dog along. Not our case! We brought our Asta pup. He’s happy!

The ocean waves play a rythm…It sounds familiar, it is the sound of sheer bliss. What a day for November!

Where to stay

We’ve seen great reviews about the hostel Bugio à Vista (Check their Facebook page!)

The Barefoot House looks wonderful as well.

Where to eat

At the Transmontano Restaurant (we couldn’t find a reference online) where we ate grilled robalo (European seabass) and then Scabbard fish in the following Sunday. It is located right across the Bugio à Vista hostel.

You cannot miss the drink that makes Cova do Vapor famous. Ask for a glass of cool Cai bem which literally translates to “Goes well”, and you’ll immediately come to the conclusion that it truly goes well with any dish, any good conversation, any sunset on the beach.

How to get to Cova do Vapor from Lisbon

You can either go by car (check the map here) or take the boat from Belém to Trafaria and then walk for a few minutes.